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Burgundy 2006: Georges Lignier

I met Georges at a village tasting in 1994. His 1993 Bonnes Mares was the best of his extensive range and the star of the day. In good vintages, the Grand Crus are among the best in the region. Fermentation is allowed to run at naturally high temperatures resulting in high extract of both colour and flavour. Georges matures his best reds in 100% new oak. Situated in the heart of the Côte de Nuits, in Morey-Saint-Denis, the house of the Domaine Georges Lignier remains traditional in its conception. Georges works there with his wife, Elizabeth and nephew, Benoit, when they’re not out in one of the 100 parcels making up 15 hectares of vines. Georges is delightful and like his wines, somewhat austere; they take some getting to know, but you will love them.
Price Per Case (in bond)
Morey Saint Denis 2006, Georges Lignier £160.00
There are 3 vineyard sites but the majority of fruit comes from Clos Solon, a more rocky and sparse piece of land. They yield a little less but the quality is of 1er Cru standard. Then the wine is cold macerated for best extraction of phenolics and to keep the wine fresh. For the 2006 there is a little less new wood and bottling will be in late January, a week or 3 earlier that usual. Wonderful concentration here and a hint of creamy caramel gives a silky charm to the finish. 2009 to 2013.
Gevrey Chambertin 2006, Georges Lignier £195.00
Bar the outstanding Gevrey 1er Cru Combottes, I've always thought of Lignier as a Morey man and so this is my first purchase of the Gevrey village. The grapes are from his 3 parcels at 3 extremes of the village area. Tasting these separately last year was an eye-opener as the differences were marked. As is often the case, the resulting blend is of great complexity and classic in style. Gunflint, toast, nuts, and what I most enjoyed, the bright, red fruits that seem to keep coming and coming at the finish. No hard edges here. 2012 to 2016.
Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Clos des Ormes 2006, Georges Lignier £225.00
A beautiful vineyard founded in the middle ages by the monks of Citeaux. Following continuous erosion the entire vineyard was replanted in 1963 and there is always grass between the rows to avoid a repeat. Most importantly the vines are in the small section immediately below Clos de la Roche. There's lovely phenolic ripeness here; crushed strawberry, raspberry, along with sweet vanilla and a hint of nutmeg. Beautiful depth and stunning value this. 2011 to 2016.
Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2006, Georges Lignier £390.00
The vines here are 70 year's old and it's their flagship wine. The colour is light and fine but not so the flavour and aromatics. Delicate, white chocolate and red cherry, strawberry fruit. Stays fresh on the long finish and shows good density despite the appearance. 2015 to 2022.
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru les Combottes 2006, Georges Lignier £395.00
This was very popular following the 2005 tasting so I asked for more detail as I tasted the 2006. Well, what good tasters you were as it appears that his part of the vineyard is afforded unique shelter and les Combottes is sandwiched between Clos de la Roche and Bonnes Mares. Clean and focussed, red fruit and toasted wood aromas. There are firm tannins and good acids making this one of the more classic reds that 2006 is happily gaining a reputation for.
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2006, Georges Lignier £500.00
There are more wood and resin notes on the nose and some chunky structure to the mid palate. This comes to life on the finish with persistent red fruit flavours and lively acids. 2019 to 2028.