Burgundy 2006: Domaine François Mikulski
The cellars of the young François Mikulski lie directly behind the great Comte Lafon. Inside there are some 300 barrels, most new and only three of them filled with the great Meursault 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’. Since 2003, there is a new installation to the east of the village but the big wines will never move from their spiritual home in Meursault.
The wines are heavyweight with cream, butter, vanilla and a little toastiness (his Nevers oak is of medium toast). The fruit of the Meursault is very tropical and peachy in style. The 1er Cru ‘les Poruzots’ is more traditional, showing honey, yeast and mineral characters. 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’ adds a vegetal, artichoke dimension and is truly awesome. Indeed I am forever fighting against the demanding Americans for these wines.
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Price Per Case (in bond) |
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Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006, Domaine François Mikulski
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£105.00 |
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Immensely powerful in its class, this could be another man's Meursault 1er Cru. Indeed much of the fruit comes from Francois' three parcels of Meursault villages land. Bold, deeply coloured, sweet and sour citrus aromas and not shy on the palate! 2008 to 2010.
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Meursault 2006, François Mikulski
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£216.00 |
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From 4 vineyards, the rich, ripe 'les Pelles'; the cooler Meix Chavaux, the classic, mineral Limozin and some declassified 1er Cru Charmes. There's 15% of new oak here. Following an obscure 2005 this is back to the classic Mikulski norm. Beautiful and delicate citrus fruit, great acidity for the vintage and a touch of mineral, gun smoke on the finish. 2009 to 2012.
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Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots 2006, Domaine François Mikulski
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£315.00 |
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This vineyard is a little lower than Genevrieres and closer to the village. In the decade or so that we have dealt with François this has improved as the vines have aged. The planting was done in 1960 and 1984 so they are actually not much younger. This last tasting chez Francois is proving inspirational as the wines have none of the loose knit qualities that have caused me to doubt the 06 whites. Chalky minerals, sherbet, caramel cream, lemon, touch of spice all in perfect harmony. Seamless and frankly astounding for 2006. 2012 to 2016+
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Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2006, Domaine François Mikulski
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£340.00 |
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The soil here is similar to that of les Poruzots (a mix of clay and chalk) but chalkier and a little shallower. The Vines are 39 years old. So we would expect the wine to be yet more expressive and it does not disappoint. Perhaps the most memorable aromas of any white; tight, focussed but with great complexity of orange flower, caramel, stone fruit, almond, mineral and spice. A little more reserved on the palate now but the persistence and balance are tremendous. Gorgeous. 2014 to 2018.
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Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots 2006, Domaine François Mikulski (Magnum) (6)
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£375.00 |
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This vineyard is a little lower than Genevrieres and closer to the village. In the decade or so that we have dealt with François this has improved as the vines have aged. The planting was done in 1960 and 1984 so they are actually not much younger. This last tasting chez Francois is proving inspirational as the wines have none of the loose knit qualities that have caused me to doubt the 06 whites. Chalky minerals, sherbet, caramel cream, lemon, touch of spice all in perfect harmony. Seamless and frankly astounding for 2006. 2012 to 2016+
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Meursault 1er Cru les Genevrieres 2006, Domaine François Mikulski (Magnum) (6)
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£399.00 |
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The soil here is similar to that of les Poruzots (a mix of clay and chalk) but chalkier and a little shallower. The Vines are 39 years old. So we would expect the wine to be yet more expressive and it does not disappoint. Perhaps the most memorable aromas of any white; tight, focussed but with great complexity of orange flower, caramel, stone fruit, almond, mineral and spice. A little more reserved on the palate now but the persistence and balance are tremendous. Gorgeous. 2014 to 2018.
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