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Burgundy 2006: Hubert de Montille

Thought the great Hubert remains on fine form, it is Etienne who shows me the domaine's stunning selection. His prodigal sister and winemaking guru, Alix, is the queen of quality control. The family's vines are centred in Volnay and Pommard but there are excellent reds in Beaune and now a few barrels of Clos Vougeot. Vineyard management and selection are the keys to such supreme quality. There is between one fifth and one third of new oak used. 2006 saw the introduction of a new cuverie in Meursault. An outstanding selection that will impress even in a difficult vintage.
Price Per Case (in bond)
Clos Vougeot 2006, Hubert de Montille (6) £295.00
This tiny parcel is one of the results of joining forces with Dujac and then taking over some vineyard holding from Moillard, both in the Cotes de Nuits. It's early days but the combination of one of the Cote de Nuits greatest vineyards with one of the Cote de Beaune's most favoured producers is mind blowing. Deep, deep cassis and cranberry and lively tannins; the overall impression is one of a sleek swimmer in a silk nightie. 2019 to 2030+
Beaune 1er Cru les Greves 2006, Hubert de Montille £295.00
The wines of Beaune itself are too often missed. Rarely heavy weights, they are perhaps the most perfumed, charming and even seductive of all. This is no exception; indeed it was exceptional in it's purity of loganberry, juicy fruit and its persistence, without relying on hard structure or overbearing acidity. A rare breed this and truly fine. 2012 to 2018
Volnay 1er Cru les Taillepieds 2006, Hubert de Montille £408.00
Where other 1er Cru Volnays seem austere, this is a wine of charm and elegance. Sweet fruit, fine acids and a light tannic structure are in perfect balance. Seamless and seductive without being overbearing. Lovely example and you won't need to wait as long in this one. 2013 to 2019.
Pommard 1er Cru les Rugiens 2006, Hubert de Montille £475.00
One of the wines that de Montille is best known for does not disappoint. This bridges the Cotes de Beaune and Nuits beautifully with a memorable combination of density of fruit and a certain subtlety wood and natural structure. Massive complexity of gunflint, red fruits, vanilla and just a touch of cream to add to the lush finish. Very fine indeed. 2016 to 2024.