Burgundy 2006: Domaine Jean Marie Fourrier
Jean Marie Fourrier is an interesting man to talk to about making Burgundy. He has a fair bit of land in different parts of the Côtes de Nuits and has achieved a sensible balance between the traditional and the modern. In the vineyard he moves with the growing band of producers who choose to respect their environment and terroir, without being classed as organic. When it comes to yields, he sees many colleagues restricting crops for no benefit in quality, especially in great years like 1999. He takes 40 hl/ha from most vineyards and, if the vines are willing, he lets them give more. Huge reputation now.
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Bourgogne Blanc 2006, Domaine Jean Marie Fourrier
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£90.00 |
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A new project for Jean-Marie and so only a small tank to taste from. It has the fatness that I associate with Nuits whites but he's retained good freshness of stone fruit and a clean, flinty finish.
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Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2006, Domaine Jean Marie Fourrier
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£240.00 |
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From the south end of the village and very similar to 1er cru terroir. Fast becoming one of my favourites, perhaps because of the hard work involved in assessing this wine, though a little easier for the 2006 as the wines have been racked into the finished blend a little earlier. Fourrier's Gevrey comes from a few parcels of grapes that are vinified separately. The main components are from the lieu dits of aux Echézeaux (close to the Echézeaux vineyard) and Champs Perriers (stony field). The former is ripe, opulent and with bags of pastille, blacks fruit. 75% of the vines are 100 years old or more. A beautifully focussed and refined example showing piquant red fruits and the complexity of a 1er Cru. 2012 to 2018.
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Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes 2006, Domaine Jean Marie Fourrier
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£398.00 |
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The vineyard name seems to have developed by Chinese whispers since the gallo-roman era when woodland pathways were known as 'Caribaudia'. So as you might guess we are lower down the slope and nearer the village. The soils are richer and slightly warmer so the fruit ripens a few days earlier and the wines are rich, fatty and concentrated, if not so complicated. Jean Marie has two thirds of the two hectares. This is the most giving of the 1er Crus and suits the vintage well. There's a creamy touch that balances the lively, red fruits. 2015 to 2022.
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Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines 2006, Domaine Jean Marie Fourrier
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£410.00 |
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The Fourriers have 0.8 ha of this 4.76 ha vineyard at the top of the hill. The vines were planted in 1928 and Jean Marie reports very good survival rates up there so little replacement over the years. This vineyard seems to have taken on extra depth in recent vintages. The 2004 was outrageous for the vintage, the 2005 a classic and now, the 2006 is a humdinger. Crunchy structure, light toast oak, bright fruits that go on and on; stunning purity. Top notch. 2019 to 2031.
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Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques 2006, Domaine Jean Marie Fourrier
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Moving around the hill to the south, rather than Southeast facing slope we are in an area of Grand Cru potential here. The berries are tiny and the yields around two thirds of his other wines. So this is a wine of concentration, mineral grip, structure and great persistence. Bold yet beautiful. 2021 to 2035.
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Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru 2006, Domaine Jean Marie Fourrier
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On the south side of the village, amongst Burgundy's best red vineyards, is one of its smallest Grand Crus, en Griotte. Dense and rich cassis, blueberry but with more elegant cranberry and raspberry on the finish. A wine to prove the class of the vintage here in the Cotes de Nuits. 2024 to 2050.
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