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Burgundy 2008: Domaine Bonneau de Martray

The modern day Domaine of Bonneau du Martray covers just over 11 hectares, 9.5h of which are planted to Chardonnay for their Corton-Charlemagne, the Pinot Noir of the remainder is sited towards the bottom of their plot in the richer soil producing their ever-improving red Corton. Although these 11 hectares are contiguous they are bisected by the notional border between Pernand Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. They own the largest part of 'En Charlemagne', predominantly in the administrative domaine of Pernand (at one time they owned it all), and similarly 'Le Charlemagne' administered mainly by Aloxe. The Domaine is managed by a small team, some of whom have been with the domaine for over 30 years; just seven people including the sons (Bernard & Jean-Pierre) of Henri Bruchon who was chief vigneron until retiring in 1994. The domaine is well known as being one of only two that produce only Grand Crus, but given that the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti now produce the occasional Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, perhaps they are now the only owners of that particular crown!
Price Per Case (in bond)
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2008, Domaine Bonneau de Martray £845.00
31.93 hectolitres/hectare. Or put more simply, it took the product of almost three vines to make just one bottle of Corton-Charlemagne 2008. The wine is extraordinary within or without the context of the vintage, and even at this embryonic stage, repays profoundly the very great investments in the vineyard that the Domaine has undertaken these last ten years. Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière is the driving force behind this. White-green gold in colour. The nose is quite beautiful with creamy white fruits, lush and intricately rich, matched by a zesty, citrus perfume. The palate is eerily balanced with taut, pure, perfectly ripe sweet fruits, and an intense, focused, delectably contained richness and concentration to the finish. Concentrated and long, this is an outstanding achievement. Drink from 2012 to 2024+