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Burgundy 2008: Domaine François Mikulski

The cellars of the young François Mikulski lie directly behind the great Comte Lafon. Inside there are some 300 barrels, most new and only three of them filled with the great Meursault 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’. Since 2003, there is a new installation to the east of the village but the big wines will never move from their spiritual home in Meursault. The wines are heavyweight with cream, butter, vanilla and a little toastiness (his Nevers oak is of medium toast). The fruit of the Meursault is very tropical and peachy in style. The 1er Cru ‘les Poruzots’ is more traditional, showing honey, yeast and mineral characters. 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’ adds a vegetal, artichoke dimension and is truly awesome. Indeed I am forever fighting against the demanding Americans for these wines.
Price Per Case (in bond)
Bourgogne Chardonnay 2008, Domaine François Mikulski £135.00
Immensely powerful in its class, this could be another man's Meursault 1er Cru. Indeed much of the fruit comes from Francois' three parcels of Meursault villages land. Pushy, persistent and like many 2008 whites, it's simply alive! 2009 to 2012
Meursault 2008, Domaine François Mikulski £275.00
From 4 vineyards, the rich, ripe 'les Pelles'; the cooler Meix Chavaux, the classic, mineral Limozin and some declassified 1er Cru Charmes. There's 15% of new oak here. Intense, citrus and a more natural style from Francois; primary fruits and mineral feel and that leaves a feeling of nature, refreshment and at one with some great vineyards rather that a stack of barrels. 2011 to 2014
Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots 2008, Domaine François Mikulski £415.00
This vineyard is a little lower than Genevrieres and closer to the village. In the decade or so that we have dealt with François this has improved as the vines have aged. The planting was done in 1960 and 1984 so they are actually not much younger. Poruzots chez Mikulski has really come of age in the last few years. Lovely deep yellow/gold, honeyed lime and mineral fruits. Extraordinary length and a powerful, even finish. Ideal in 5 to 6 years. Available in magnum. 2014 to 2019.
Meursault 1er Cru les Poruzots 2008, Domaine François Mikulski (Magnum) (6) £430.00
Meursault 1er Cru les Genevrieres 2008, Domaine François Mikulski (Magnum) (6) £450.00
Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2008, Domaine François Mikulski £475.00
Perhaps the most memorable aromas of any white; tight, focussed but with great complexity of orange flower, caramel, stone fruit, almond, mineral and spice. The mineral and natural acid notes dominate but there's plenty of depth in the mid palate, albeit hidden away for now. Very much like the 2006 this. Drink from 2012 to 2018+.
Meursault 1er Cru les Genevrieres 2008, Domaine François Mikulski £475.00
The soil here is similar to that of les Poruzots (a mix of clay and chalk) but chalkier and a little shallower. The Vines are 39 years old. So we would expect the wine to be yet more expressive and it does not disappoint. Perhaps the most memorable aromas of any white; tight, focussed but with great complexity of orange flower, caramel, stone fruit, almond, mineral and spice. The mineral and natural acid notes dominate but there's plenty of depth in the mid palate, albeit hidden away for now. Very much like the 2006 this. Keep it! 2015 to 2020. Available in magnum