Handford Wines

Aficionados of Californian Pinot Noir and Chardonnay will need little introduction to the Santa Maria winery of Au Bon Climat. Here, winemaker Jim Clendenen has carved out a reputation for his wines that are admired by wine-lovers around the world, and compared with the best from Burgundy. ABC's remote and unprepossessing winery is situated in the heart of the Bien Nacido vineyards, several miles from Santa Maria the nearest town, and amongst mixed farming land. The winery is around 70 miles north of Santa Barbara and sits in a transverse valley. This geographical quirk allows cool, sometimes foggy air to flow in from the coast, keeping temperatures moderate - essential for vines to produce Pinot Noir of real quality. Jim Clendenen is by turns laid-back, funny and very quick-witted, though intense and passionate about his winemaking. His approach follows a very Burgundian model. There is careful selection of grapes, fermentation in open-topped tanks, minimal fining, no filtering. He uses the best quality French oak and adopts what might be best described as a "hands-off" approach. He is in total control of the vinification of grapes from each separate vineyard and of the final blending for each of his bottlings. The winery is shared between Jim and Bob Lindquist who makes world-class Syrah under the Qupé label. Around half a dozen other full-time staff have nominal job titles, but this is a fluid organisational structure and everyone has a hand in the winemaking.

The Wine

From the most carefully selected cool climate sites of the Sanford & Benedict vineyard, Jim Clendened has succeeded in producing a veritable Burgundian-styled classic with a Californian twist. Intensely mineral and focused, the lemon and citrus fruits are powerful and precise. Fresh natural grape acids add definition to this wine, that finishes with a long concentrated aftertaste.

Single Bottle: £24.95

In a case of 12: £23.70