Handford Wines

Central Otago's newest estate has vineyards in the old mining country of the Bendigo region. Winemaker Paul Pujol (right) and I spent as much time clambering about the old gold mines as we did inspecting the vineyard, but what fascinating high country this is, the ground rich in clays and limestone, mixed with schist and quartz. Paul is a Kiwi who set off with a plan to make five vintages in five wineries, following the harvest north from the Languedoc. However, whilst with Kuntz-Bas in Alsace their winemaker left, and Paul was offered the job. It is almost unheard of for a foreign winemaker to join an Alsace family domain. Paul worked three vintages there, from 2000 to 2002, then two years at Lemelson in Oregon before heading home. Prophet's Rock makes its wines at Olsen Estate for now, from Pinots Noir and Gris planted on north facing slopes beside historic Goldrush settlements. The nearby Riesling vineyard has a foot or so of gravelly top soil and sand, over layers of calcified material and then a band of clay. Paul says he'd love to make his version of an Alsace Grand Cru there some day. He is also keen to plant Gewürztraminer, and to make a Passito-style Riesling using fruit drying facilities in nearby Cromwell. This is most certainly a name to watch.

The Wine

Rich, super ripe in the style of a Grand Cru Alsace wine. Plenty of ripe, unctious yellow citrus and pear fruit but with phenomenal acidty to create a wonderful balance that is punchy and very long. Drink now to 2012.

Single Bottle: £16.99

In a case of 12: £16.14