Handford Wines

Charles F. "Charlie" Wagner, the legendary founder of Caymus Vineyards in Napa Valley, one of California's greatest wineries, died on Feb. 20 at his home in Rutherford, where he was born and raised. He was 89. A plainspoken, colorful maverick, Wagner was a farmer first and a winemaker second. "There's more work than glory in being a farmer, but I get a lot of satisfaction out of it," he said in an interview with Wine Spectator in 1987, the year he appeared on the cover that called Caymus Cabernet "The Best Damn Cabernet in California." "He was a continuous innovator, never accepting conventional wisdom if he believed his own approach would improve the quality of the grapes," said his son and partner, Chuck Wagner. In 1972, at the age of 60, Wagner, along with his wife, Lorna, and their son, Chuck, founded Caymus. The elder Wagner had grown weary of selling his grapes for low prices to Napa Valley wineries, only to have them get lost in larger blends. Caymus initially produced a variety of wines, including Riesling and Pinot Noir, and a value-oriented brand called Liberty School. But by the 1980s, the winery began to focus on Cabernet. Its Special Selection Cabernet was a two-time winner of Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year, and became one of the world's most recognizable labels. Wagner was a constant presence in the tasting room, recalled former employee Frank Altamura, who now owns Altamura Vineyards. "Here was the guy who made the wines, standing behind a board stretched between two barrels, pouring them for you," Altamura said. Even as Caymus wines became famous, Wagner shunned ostentation. "We don't like to brag about it," he said, "but we think we do a good job here and if people like the wine, well, great."

The Wine

Soft tropical notes of guava and cherimoya, also peach and honeysuckle. The rich perfume is supported by concentrated and focused layers of peach and apricot nectar, pear and green melon with spicy vanilla notes. The creamy texture and balanced acidity carries through the palate for a long finish.

Single Bottle: £21.99

In a case of 12: £20.89