Handford Wines

The cellars of the young François Mikulski lie directly behind the great Comte Lafon. Inside there are some 300 barrels, most new and only three of them filled with the great Meursault 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’. Since 2003, there is a new installation to the east of the village but the big wines will never move from their spiritual home in Meursault. The wines are heavyweight with cream, butter, vanilla and a little toastiness (his Nevers oak is of medium toast). The fruit of the Meursault is very tropical and peachy in style. The 1er Cru ‘les Poruzots’ is more traditional, showing honey, yeast and mineral characters. 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’ adds a vegetal, artichoke dimension and is truly awesome. Indeed I am forever fighting against the demanding Americans for these wines.

The Wine

This vineyard is a little lower than Genevrières and closer to the village. In the decade or so that we have dealt with François this has improved as the vines have aged. The planting was done in 1960 and 1984 so they are actually not much younger. Mid yellow straw and bright. Quite open, complex citrus fruit, nuts and mineral. Full and deep without being overtly fat. Round and pleasant for the medium term. 2008 to 2014.

Single Bottle: £35.95

In a case of 12: £34.15