Handford Wines

The cellars of the young François Mikulski lie directly behind the great Comte Lafon. Inside there are some 300 barrels, most new and only three of them filled with the great Meursault 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’. Since 2003, there is a new installation to the east of the village but the big wines will never move from their spiritual home in Meursault. The wines are heavyweight with cream, butter, vanilla and a little toastiness (his Nevers oak is of medium toast). The fruit of the Meursault is very tropical and peachy in style. The 1er Cru ‘les Poruzots’ is more traditional, showing honey, yeast and mineral characters. 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’ adds a vegetal, artichoke dimension and is truly awesome. Indeed I am forever fighting against the demanding Americans for these wines.

The Wine

Here the soils are deeper and richer and tend to yield more opulent and heady characters in the finished wine. There are more exotic fruit characters and supple acids. But I found this to be more nervous in 2004. Taught, fresh flowers, less fat but a little cream and sweet spice. This seems very fine, with a lot of energy. Very fine and potentially long lived. 2010 to 2017.

Single Bottle: £79.00

In a case of 12: £75.05