Handford Wines

The cellars of the young François Mikulski lie directly behind the great Comte Lafon. Inside there are some 300 barrels, most new and only three of them filled with the great Meursault 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’. Since 2003, there is a new installation to the east of the village but the big wines will never move from their spiritual home in Meursault. The wines are heavyweight with cream, butter, vanilla and a little toastiness (his Nevers oak is of medium toast). The fruit of the Meursault is very tropical and peachy in style. The 1er Cru ‘les Poruzots’ is more traditional, showing honey, yeast and mineral characters. 1er Cru ‘les Genevrières’ adds a vegetal, artichoke dimension and is truly awesome. Indeed I am forever fighting against the demanding Americans for these wines.

The Wine

From 4 vineyards, the rich, ripe 'les Pelles'; the cooler Meix Chavaux, the classic, mineral Limozin and some declassified 1er Cru Charmes. This is vastly different from recent vintages; given the quality Francois has been able to incorporate many terroirs and so may nuances of style and flavour to give a complex and cosmopolitan white. It's an unusual combination of burgundian obscurity and easy drinking. 2007 to 2011.

Single Bottle: £25.95

In a case of 12: £24.65