From their own vines in the Hautes Cotes de Nuits comes a deeply coloured white with depth and texture. Chardonnays in the Nuits tend to show a very slightly creamy finish to balance strong, lemon zest and ripe melon fruit flavours. This is one of those wines that we see as a bit of a curio, but has become a perennial favouite that we wish we had a bit more of!
Producer Information: Frederic Esmonin
The name Esmonin is synonymous with the village of Gevrey-Chambertin (Sylvie Esmonin is a cousin). Father and son, André and Frederic, established their tiny property primarily clustered in Gevrey-Chambertin. These wonderful vineyards are still managed by André, who was bottling quality reds here at les Estournelles long before the fashion for domaine bottled burgundy took off. The vines are managed, not always with the aim of reducing yield to produce soupy concentration, but to achieve a balance between expression and concentration; a good deal of finesse and some fat to the wines. Vine age exceeds 40 years in some parcels, including their Grand Cru sites in Ruchottes-Chambertin and Mazy-Chambertin.
André is, in his modest way, one of most knowledgeable of Nuits vignerons. He remembers details of vintages back to the 1950s and planted vines with his father in the 1940s. He is not a big fan of intervention, especially green harvesting, as he believes that ‘more often than not, it is an attempt to correct mistakes that have been made in the pruning and longer term management of vineyards’.