2010 was an excellent vintage in Rioja, and Tondonia Tinto Reserva is, unsurprisingly, absolutely superb this year. The deep dark brick colour and narrow amber rim already suggests its intensity. Concentrated, powerful aromas of black and red fruit move into an almost liquorice character on top. It really feels astonishingly pure for this wine yet this intense fruit is cradled by more classic ‘Tondonia’ notes of cured jamón, leather, vanilla and nutmeg spice.
Goodness – the palate is so fresh and bright, full of life with waves of flavour coming through. Deep intense, bramble fruit persists but with an almost marmite savouriness behind. There is serious concentration here, allied with stunning freshness, and the super fine tannins leave a light dusting of grip on the tongue, suggesting that this really needs more time. The most incredible aspect of this wine is that it is still tight at this stage, yet it is also, somehow, mouthcoatingly concentrated at the same time. Simply, wow. Drink 2024 (decanted) to 2050+.